Himeji Castle is the largest remaining castle in Japan. The majestic white complex, which completely dominates the city of Himeji, survived both the turmoil of the Sengoku period and the Second World War almost unscathed. It is the prime example and pinnacle of Japanese castle building in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The castle is unique in its combination of architectural beauty and sophisticated fortifications, making it virtually impregnable. Indeed it was never conquered. Because of its gleaming white outer walls and the shape of the main castle, it is also known in Japanese as Shirasagijō (白鷺城), or “White Heron Castle”.
It often appears in film and television whenever the need for “a Japanese castle” arises, for example in the series Shōgun as a stand-in for the (largely destroyed) Osaka Castle.
Himeji Castle Tour
It is perhaps half a kilometer from Himeji Station to the castle, which is clearly visible from the station on a small hill. Before I crossed the Sakura Bridge, I explored the outskirts. There is (of course) a small shrine and a park from where you have a very nice view of the complex. It also has some archaeological treasures to offer. There is also a small zoo in the park, but it seemed a bit suspect to me for animal welfare and ethical reasons.
You enter the castle via the Sakura Bridge and through the Otemon. The entrance fee is a very reasonable 1000 ¥, and I was happy to invest the additional 50 ¥ for the castle garden as well. You receive a guide and can see further information at various points using augmented reality. Overall, everything was very well documented and bilingual. I had no problems translating the rest using Google Translate.
The western bailey
The official route, which you should follow, offers two options: either directly to the main keep or first through the grounds of the western bailey. You should definitely follow this route if you have the time. Besides the many great views, you will learn a lot about castle life in feudal Japan. There is also a lot of information about the sad story of Princess Sen, probably the most prominent resident of the castle.
You walk the entire length of the outer wall and, like later on in the main keep, you have to take your shoes off at the entrance. It is therefore advisable to wear good socks.
The main keep
You reach the main castle via a maze of winding paths and gates that would have effectively stopped any attack, passing by the “Folding Fan Wall“.This impressive fortification got its name because of the shape of the stones and the angle it forms with the ground. Finally, you reach the main complex, which consists of a small keep in the northwest and the main keep. Only the latter is open to visitors. It was relatively quiet that day. But I can imagine that it might be very crowded on other days. So you should get there early and plan enough time.
You climb up to the sixth floor. On each level, you can learn a lot about the history and especially the construction of the castle. Most fascinating for me was the fact that the entire support for the massive tower consists of just two huge beams. These form the core of a half-timbered framework. All very different from European stone castles, but no less impressive. From the top floors you have a great view of the complex and the (less impressive) city.
Castle stables and legends
On the way out you pass the Okiku ido. A typical Japanese ghost story shrouds this well in mystery. Additionally, a few Shachihoko from different eras are on display. You can find these mythical creatures, half carp, and half lion (or dragon), on many roofs of old Japanese buildings. They are said to serve as protective spirits against storms and fire damage.
I spent easily 3-4 hours in the complex. It was much longer than I planned, but not a single minute was boring. My feet were really sore at the end, though. Since the weather was amazing, I decided to visit the adjacent Japanese garden to relax.