The island of Enoshima was to be my first destination on the last (full) day of the trip. Normally you go there for the beautiful sandy beaches or gardens, but unfortunately, the weather was way too bad. But there was still a lot to see!
Riding the Enoden from Kamakura to Enoshima
The easiest way to get to the island from Kamakura (or Fujisawa) is with the Enoshima Dentetsu, or Enoden for short. This small train cruises leisurely through the countryside, more like a tram, so you have plenty of time to enjoy the area. You practically drive right through the residents’ front gardens.
The line has gained some fame in anime circles, as it is kind of a role model for “small suburban trains”. As a result, it is often very crowded. Some of the level crossings have now been cordoned off to prevent onlookers from getting hurt. On this day, however, the number of passengers was OK. Possibly because of the bad weather, and because during the week there is of course (a little) less going on. That said, I strongly recommend reserving more time, especially for the way back. Otherwise, it will be a long walk to Kamakura…
You can use SUICA/PASMO there, and it is advisable to buy a day ticket if you want to get off in the small towns along the route. The JR Pass is not valid!
Shrines and Dragons on Enoshima
The island is connected to the mainland by a long bridge. It takes about a quarter of an hour to get there. I could already see the large Enospa building in the distance. Another day of wellness would have been nice, especially in the cold, wet, windy weather. If the weather was good, you would even have a chance of seeing Mount Fuji. But unfortunately, the spa has a strict no-tattoo policy!
So I skipped the spa, bought a few delicious dough balls, and wandered around the shore for a bit. I didn’t want to go to Dr. Fish that day either, although I considered the idea of having fish “do” my poor feet to be funny. Next time…
Of course, there are also a lot of stairs on the island, like everywhere in Japan, and the largest one leads directly to the…
Enoshima shrine(s)
Once you have climbed the stairs, you can choose between three shrines that belong together but are spread over half the island. From the top, you also have a beautiful view of the sea.
If you continue hiking, you will pass a picturesque gorge (Yama futatsu). It is very picturesque even in stormy weather.
There are also a lot of dragons on the island, as the island is connected with the legend of the goddess and the five-headed dragon. A “dragon love bell”, a small shrine in the shape of a dragon, and here too there was a dragon to see:
Iwaya Caves
These caves are located on the southern tip of the island. On the way there you pass a small rock shaped like a turtle. The caves themselves cost 500 ¥ to enter. In the first cave, you will find a short history of the island and two small shrines. The friendly salesperson hands you a candle. As the ceiling is quite low, you should be careful not to hit your head.
In the second cave, there is the dragon – of course! Very colorful, with music and atmosphere. I found it a bit strange, but also quite funny. In any case, everything on the small island really revolves around the dragon theme!
On the way back I passed the Samuel Cocking Gardens and the large observation tower. But since it was really wet and the view was only mediocre, I decided to postpone both until another time.