The Fushimi Inari-Taisha is one of the most famous and oldest Shinto shrines in Kyoto and one of the most important sights in the city. After the fun last evening, things should be a bit more “serious” today.
Thou shalt pass through 1000 gates
After an unspectacular train ride, during which I was able to admire Kyoto Station (briefly), I quickly reached Inari Station. Even though (unusually for Japan) the regional trains were significantly delayed. The shrine was easy to find. You just had to follow the crowd. Although the weather was only moderate and was to become much more awful as the day progressed, the site was well attended.
After you pass the usual entrance gates you proceed through the tunnel of gates. Many gates! I didn’t count whether there were really 1000. At the beginning it is still quite busy, but at every little souvenir station and tea house the crowd thins out. There is an inscription on many of the gates, and all of these gates have been donated by private individuals.
From the Okusha Shrine onwards, the crowds became noticeably smaller. There are small shrines along the way and fox statues sitting everywhere, which act as messengers of the rice god.
Ascent to Mount Inari
I really wanted to climb to the top of the mountain. Even though it is more of a hill at around 230m, the journey is the destination and you do walk for quite a while. In fact, I regretted the decision halfway there because an icy wind started to blow and the rain quickly soaked me completely. Only a few other pilgrims had the same foolish idea, and most of them were tourists. At least I eventually reached the Ichi-no-mine shrine, the end point of the tour, and then started straight back down.
About two thirds of the way I finally stopped at an inn, as most of the others were completely overcrowded. Warm tea and zaru-soba – the latter is cold soba, which of course I didn’t know. I would have preferred something warmer, but well – it was still delicious!
Once I reached the bottom, I stopped at the Sando Chaya teahouse, where I had a delicious grilled sweet rice ball and drank soothing roasted Hochija tea.